Who Invented Relaxers for Black Hair? A Complete History Through 2025

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The Early Foundations: Pre-Commercial Relaxer Methods

Long before commercial relaxers entered the market, Black communities developed various methods to temporarily alter hair texture. Throughout the 19th century, homemade concoctions using eggs, oils, butter, and even lye soap were applied to hair in attempts to achieve straighter styles. These early approaches were often harsh and potentially damaging.

The hot comb, patented in France in 1845 by Francois Marcel Grateau, became a popular thermal straightening tool when adapted for Black hair. Women would heat these metal combs on stoves and carefully pull them through their hair to achieve temporary straightening.^{Smithsonian Magazine}

These early straightening methods emerged against a backdrop of Eurocentric beauty standards that permeated American society following slavery. Straighter hair often meant better social and economic opportunities in a deeply prejudiced society, creating tremendous pressure to conform to these standards.

For many Black women in particular, hair straightening wasn't simply about aesthetics—it was a practical response to systemic discrimination that limited opportunities for those with natural hair textures. This complex social context laid the groundwork for the eventual development of chemical relaxers.

Garrett Augustus Morgan: The First Patent

The true pioneer of chemical hair relaxers was Garrett Augustus Morgan, an African American inventor and businessman born to formerly enslaved parents in Kentucky. While Morgan is perhaps best known for inventing the three-position traffic signal and an early gas mask, his contributions to hair care technology were equally revolutionary.

In 1909, Morgan made a serendipitous discovery while attempting to develop a liquid that would reduce friction on sewing machine needles. He noticed that the solution straightened the wool fibers it contacted. Curious about its effects on human hair, Morgan tested the formula on himself and observed its hair-straightening properties.

This discovery led to the creation of the G.A. Morgan Hair Refining Cream, which became the first patented chemical hair straightener. Morgan's product contained alkaline chemicals that broke down the protein structure of the hair, allowing it to be reshaped into a straighter form.^{Biography.com}

To demonstrate his product's effectiveness, Morgan established the G.A. Morgan Hair Refining Company and opened a hair care products store in Cleveland. He even performed live demonstrations, showing how his cream could transform hair texture.

While revolutionary, Morgan's early relaxer formula was harsh by today's standards. It contained sodium hydroxide (lye)—a strong alkali that effectively broke down hair bonds but could cause scalp burns and hair damage if not carefully applied. Despite these limitations, Morgan's invention marked the beginning of the commercial chemical hair straightening industry.

The Madam C.J. Walker Contribution

Contrary to popular belief, Madam C.J. Walker did not invent hair relaxers. However, her contributions to Black hair care were immense and helped advance the industry that would eventually embrace chemical straighteners.

Born Sarah Breedlove in 1867, Walker developed a line of hair care products specifically designed for Black women after experiencing her own hair loss issues. Her primary innovation was the "Walker System," which included a specialized shampoo, an ointment containing sulfur to heal scalp disease, heated combs, and brushing techniques that helped women grow and maintain healthier hair.^{National Park Service}

While Walker primarily promoted hair health rather than straightening, her business model revolutionized the Black beauty industry. She trained thousands of women as "Walker Agents" who sold her products door-to-door, providing economic opportunities at a time when options for Black women were severely limited.

Walker's empire, valued at over $1 million at the time of her death in 1919 (equivalent to about $15 million today), demonstrated the enormous market potential for Black hair care products. Her success paved the way for future entrepreneurs who would develop and market chemical relaxers.

The heated combs that Walker popularized were often used alongside early relaxer formulations, as the combination of chemical and thermal treatments produced more dramatic straightening results. This complementary relationship between different hair straightening methods would continue throughout the evolution of relaxer technology.

George E. Johnson and the Birth of Modern Relaxers

The modern relaxer industry as we know it today truly began with George E. Johnson, who founded Johnson Products Company in 1954. Johnson, a former door-to-door cosmetics salesman, recognized the market potential for better-formulated hair straightening products.

His first breakthrough product was Ultra Wave Hair Culture, a chemical hair relaxer marketed primarily to men. This product offered a significant improvement over previous formulations, providing more consistent results with less damage. For application and styling after relaxing, many professionals recommended using a wide-tooth comb like the Conair Detangling Comb to minimize breakage on freshly processed hair.

In 1957, Johnson expanded his line with Ultra Sheen, a relaxer system specifically formulated for women. Ultra Sheen revolutionized the market with its two-step process that included a protective base cream to reduce scalp irritation—an innovation that addressed one of the major drawbacks of earlier lye-based relaxers.^{BlackPast.org}

Johnson Products Company became the first Black-owned company to be listed on the American Stock Exchange in 1971. At its peak in the 1970s, the company controlled approximately 80% of the ethnic hair care market, with annual sales exceeding $40 million.

The success of Johnson's relaxer formulations transformed Black hair care from a cottage industry into a major commercial enterprise. His products made chemical straightening more accessible, more reliable, and somewhat safer than previous options, helping to popularize relaxed hairstyles throughout the 1960s and beyond.

Lye vs. No-Lye Relaxers: A Chemical Evolution

The evolution of relaxer formulations represents one of the most significant technological developments in the history of these products. Early relaxers universally contained sodium hydroxide (lye)—an extremely alkaline substance with a pH between 12 and 14 that effectively breaks down the hair's disulfide bonds.

While effective at straightening even the most tightly coiled hair, lye relaxers posed significant risks. They could cause chemical burns, scalp irritation, and excessive damage to the hair shaft if left on too long or applied incorrectly. Many users experienced scabs (commonly called "relaxer scabs") from chemical burns on their scalps.

In the 1970s, a major breakthrough occurred with the development of "no-lye" relaxers. These formulations replaced sodium hydroxide with calcium hydroxide or guanidine carbonate, which are somewhat gentler on the scalp while still effective at straightening hair. The pH of these products typically ranges from 9 to 11, making them less alkaline than traditional lye relaxers.

Soft & Beautiful, introduced in 1979, was among the first major no-lye relaxer brands to gain widespread popularity. For those with sensitive scalps, protecting the hair after relaxing became essential, with many professionals recommending overnight protection with a Grace Eleyae Satin-Lined Sleep Cap to maintain moisture and prevent breakage.

While no-lye relaxers reduced scalp irritation, they came with their own drawbacks. They tended to cause more dryness and could leave calcium deposits on the hair that led to breakage over time. This trade-off between scalp protection and hair health has remained a consideration in relaxer formulation.

The chemical dichotomy between lye and no-lye relaxers represents the industry's ongoing attempt to balance effectiveness with safety—a challenge that continues to drive innovation in relaxer technology today.

The Relaxer Industry Boom (1960s-1990s)

The period from the 1960s through the 1990s marked the golden age of hair relaxers. During this era, chemical straightening became deeply embedded in Black hair culture, with relaxers transforming from specialty products to mainstream hair care staples.

Several major companies dominated the market during this period. In addition to Johnson Products Company, brands like Revlon (with its Realistic line), Soft Sheen (later Soft Sheen-Carson), and Pro-Line established themselves as relaxer powerhouses. The 1980s saw the introduction of Precise by Soft Sheen, which became one of the best-selling relaxers of the decade.

Marketing for these products reflected and reinforced prevailing beauty standards. Advertisements frequently featured models with sleek, straight styles, implicitly suggesting that straightened hair was more professional, more beautiful, and more desirable than natural textures. Television commercials, magazine ads, and billboards in Black communities consistently promoted the message that straight hair was the ideal.

Celebrity influence played a crucial role in driving relaxer popularity. From Diana Ross to Diahann Carroll in the 1960s and 1970s to Whitney Houston and Janet Jackson in the 1980s and 1990s, Black female celebrities predominantly wore straightened styles that millions of women sought to emulate.

The economic impact was staggering. By the 1990s, the Black hair care industry had grown into a multi-billion-dollar market, with relaxers representing a substantial portion of these sales. In 1998, Alberto-Culver purchased Pro-Line for $80 million, while L'Oréal acquired Soft Sheen for approximately $160 million—transactions that highlighted the mainstream value of Black hair care brands.

This period also saw the development of specialized relaxers for different market segments. Just For Me, introduced in 1986, became the leading relaxer brand for children, while TCB and Dark & Lovely offered varied strengths for different hair textures. After relaxing, many professionals recommended using a Cricket Ultra Smooth Conditioning Rake Comb for gentle detangling and styling.

The Natural Hair Movement and Its Impact on Relaxers

The turn of the 21st century marked the beginning of a significant shift in Black hair culture. The natural hair movement, which had seen earlier iterations during the Civil Rights and Black Power movements of the 1960s and 1970s, reemerged with unprecedented momentum.

This modern natural hair movement was characterized by a rejection of chemical straighteners in favor of embracing natural textures. Unlike previous waves that were primarily political, this movement balanced political consciousness with aesthetic appreciation and hair health concerns.

The internet played a pivotal role in accelerating this shift. Websites like Nappturality (founded in 2002) and later YouTube channels dedicated to natural hair care provided information, tutorials, and community support that had previously been unavailable to those considering "going natural."

The statistics tell a compelling story of decline in relaxer popularity. According to market research firm Mintel, relaxer sales in the U.S. fell from $206 million in 2008 to approximately $130 million by 2021—a decline of nearly 40%. Meanwhile, the market for natural hair products exploded, growing by over 50% during the same period.^Mintel

Cultural attitudes shifted dramatically as natural hair gained visibility in media, entertainment, and workplaces. Celebrities like Lupita Nyong'o, Viola Davis, and Solange Knowles proudly wore natural styles on red carpets and in performances, helping to normalize and celebrate natural textures.

The natural hair movement also coincided with growing health concerns about relaxers. As information about potential links between chemical straighteners and various health issues became more widely available, many consumers began questioning whether the aesthetic benefits of relaxers outweighed the potential risks.

This shift represents one of the most significant developments in the history of Black hair care—a move away from the chemical straightening that had dominated for nearly a century toward a more diverse range of styling options and a broader definition of beauty.

Health Concerns and Scientific Research

As relaxer usage became widespread, scientific research began to uncover potential health concerns associated with these chemical treatments. These findings have significantly influenced consumer attitudes and industry practices over time.

One of the earliest and most common concerns was scalp irritation and burns. The highly alkaline nature of relaxers, particularly those containing sodium hydroxide, can cause chemical burns if the product contacts the scalp for too long or if the scalp has small cuts or abrasions.

More concerning are studies suggesting possible links between long-term relaxer use and more serious health conditions. A 2012 study published in the American Journal of Epidemiology found associations between hair relaxer use and uterine fibroids, with higher risks for women who used relaxers more frequently or for longer periods.^{American Journal of Epidemiology}

In 2019, research published in the International Journal of Cancer suggested a potential link between hair straightener use and increased breast cancer risk, particularly among Black women who used these products more frequently.^{International Journal of Cancer} More recently, studies have investigated possible connections between relaxer use and endocrine disruption, as some products contain chemicals that may interfere with hormone function.

These health concerns have driven significant changes in relaxer formulations. Manufacturers have worked to develop gentler products with fewer potentially harmful ingredients. Modern relaxers often advertise reduced levels of harsh chemicals and the addition of conditioning agents to minimize damage.

Regulatory oversight has also evolved. The FDA, which classifies hair relaxers as cosmetics, has increased scrutiny of these products over time, though critics argue that regulation remains insufficient. In the European Union, stricter cosmetics regulations have forced manufacturers to reformulate some products for that market.

It's important to note that while these studies show associations, they don't definitively prove causation. However, the accumulation of research has certainly contributed to the decline in relaxer usage and the growth of the natural hair movement.

Modern Innovations in Relaxer Technology (2000-2025)

Despite the declining market, the relaxer industry has not remained stagnant. Significant innovations have emerged since 2000, focusing primarily on creating safer, less damaging formulations while maintaining effectiveness.

One major advancement has been the development of "botanical" or "natural" relaxers that incorporate plant extracts and oils. These products, while still containing chemical straightening agents, include ingredients like olive oil, shea butter, and aloe vera to help condition the hair and protect the scalp during processing.

Brands like Design Essentials and Avlon have pioneered multi-step relaxer systems that include pre-treatments to protect the hair, carefully pH-balanced relaxer creams, and specialized post-relaxer treatments to restore moisture and protein. After these treatments, many professionals recommend using the Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Strengthening Hair Masque to help restore moisture and strengthen the hair.

Customization has become another key innovation. Modern relaxers often come in various strengths—super, regular, and mild—allowing for more personalized application based on hair texture and desired results. This represents a significant advancement from the one-size-fits-all approach of earlier decades.

Application technology has also evolved. Precision applicator bottles, better protective base creams, and improved timing indicators help reduce the risk of overprocessing. Some professional-grade relaxers now change color when processing is complete, helping to prevent damage from leaving the product on too long.

The texturizer—a milder form of relaxer designed to loosen curl pattern rather than completely straighten hair—has gained popularity as a middle ground between fully relaxed and natural hair. These products typically contain lower concentrations of active ingredients and are left on the hair for shorter periods.

Digital innovations have also transformed the relaxer experience. Mobile apps that time processing, online hair analysis tools that recommend specific formulations, and virtual consultations with licensed cosmetologists have all made chemical straightening more precise and potentially safer.

While these innovations haven't reversed the overall decline in relaxer usage, they have helped maintain a core market of consumers who continue to prefer straightened styles while addressing many of the concerns that drove others away from these products.

Global Perspectives on Hair Relaxers

While our focus has primarily been on the American market, hair relaxers have a global footprint with fascinating variations in usage patterns, formulations, and cultural contexts around the world.

In the Caribbean and Latin America, relaxer usage has followed somewhat different trajectories than in the United States. Countries like Brazil have developed their own straightening technologies, such as the Brazilian keratin treatment, which uses formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasing compounds rather than hydroxide-based chemicals to temporarily straighten hair.

African markets represent a significant segment of the global relaxer industry. Countries like Nigeria, South Africa, and Kenya have substantial relaxer markets, though these too have seen the influence of the natural hair movement in recent years. African entrepreneurs have also contributed innovations to relaxer technology, with companies like Darling (East Africa) and Motions (South Africa) developing formulations specifically suited to local preferences and hair types.

In Europe, relaxer usage among Black communities has generally mirrored American trends, though with some delay. The UK, France, and Germany have significant markets for these products, particularly in cities with large African and Caribbean diaspora populations. European regulations on cosmetic ingredients, which are often stricter than those in the US, have pushed manufacturers to develop alternative formulations for these markets.

The economic impact of the global relaxer market remains substantial despite recent declines. As of 2023, the worldwide market for chemical hair straighteners was valued at approximately $800 million, with projections suggesting modest growth in some regions even as North American sales continue to decrease.

Cultural approaches to hair straightening vary significantly across different societies. In some regions, relaxed hair is associated with professional settings and social advancement, while in others, a more diverse range of textures is accepted in all contexts. These cultural differences influence not only consumer behavior but also product development and marketing strategies.

The global exchange of hair care knowledge has accelerated with digital connectivity, allowing techniques and products developed in one region to quickly influence practices elsewhere. This cross-pollination of ideas continues to shape the evolution of hair straightening technologies worldwide.

The Future of Hair Relaxers

As we look toward the future, several trends suggest how the hair relaxer landscape might continue to evolve through 2025 and beyond.

Market projections indicate that while relaxer usage will likely never return to its peak levels, the decline has begun to stabilize. A core consumer base continues to prefer relaxed styles, ensuring these products won't disappear entirely. Industry analysts predict the global hair relaxer market will maintain a value of approximately $700-800 million through 2025, with possible modest growth in emerging markets offsetting continued declines in North America and Europe.

Technological innovation remains a key factor in the industry's future. Research into safer straightening chemicals continues, with some companies exploring enzyme-based straighteners that work by breaking down specific proteins in the hair without the harsh alkalinity of traditional relaxers. Others are developing heat-activated polymers that could straighten hair with minimal chemical intervention.

The relationship between relaxed and natural hair is evolving toward a more balanced coexistence. Rather than the stark either/or dichotomy that characterized earlier discussions, many consumers and stylists now embrace a spectrum of options. Some individuals alternate between periods of wearing their hair natural and relaxed, while others use mild texturizers to achieve a middle ground.

Industry response to changing preferences has been multifaceted. Major manufacturers now typically offer complete product lines for both relaxed and natural hair, acknowledging the diversity of consumer choices. Salon professionals increasingly train in both chemical services and natural hair styling, allowing them to serve clients across the spectrum of texture preferences.

Environmental and ethical considerations are also shaping the future of relaxers. Consumers increasingly demand sustainable packaging, cruelty-free testing practices, and transparent ingredient sourcing. Companies that adapt to these expectations may find competitive advantages in an otherwise challenging market.

Perhaps most significantly, the conversation around hair texture has fundamentally changed. The rigid beauty standards that drove relaxer adoption for decades have loosened considerably, creating space for more inclusive definitions of professional and beautiful hair. This cultural shift, more than any technological development, may ultimately determine the future role of relaxers in Black hair care.

Conclusion

The story of hair relaxers—from Garrett Augustus Morgan's accidental discovery to today's advanced formulations—mirrors the complex journey of Black hair culture itself. These products have never been merely cosmetic; they've been intertwined with identity, opportunity, self-expression, and the ongoing negotiation of beauty standards in a society that hasn't always valued Black features.

The inventors and innovators we've discussed—Morgan, Johnson, and countless others—created products that transformed not just hair but also economies and communities. The Black-owned businesses that pioneered the relaxer industry provided employment, wealth creation, and economic empowerment during periods of severe discrimination and limited opportunity.

Yet the legacy of relaxers remains complicated. While they offered solutions to social pressures and practical styling options, they also reinforced problematic beauty standards and posed health risks that weren't fully understood for decades. The decline in relaxer usage coinciding with the rise of the natural hair movement represents not just a change in consumer preferences but a profound cultural shift toward self-acceptance and expanded definitions of beauty.

Today's landscape offers more choices than ever before. The either/or dichotomy between relaxed and natural hair has given way to a spectrum of options, with individuals free to choose the styles that best express their identities and meet their practical needs without the weight of judgment that once accompanied these choices.

As we look to the future, the most promising development isn't any particular product innovation but rather the growing freedom to make personal hair care choices based on individual preference rather than external pressure. In this more inclusive environment, relaxers may continue to play a role—albeit a diminished one—in the rich tapestry of Black hair care traditions.

Whether you choose to relax your hair, wear it natural, or alternate between different styles, the most important legacy of this history may be the hard-won freedom to make that choice for yourself.

Frequently Asked Questions

When was the first hair relaxer invented?

The first patented hair relaxer was created by Garrett Augustus Morgan in 1909. His G.A. Morgan Hair Refining Cream was discovered accidentally while he was working on a solution for sewing machine needles.

Did Madam C.J. Walker invent hair relaxers?

No, Madam C.J. Walker did not invent hair relaxers. She created a line of hair care products focused on scalp health and conditioning, primarily using heated combs rather than chemicals for straightening.

What's the difference between lye and no-lye relaxers?

Lye relaxers contain sodium hydroxide and work more quickly but can cause more irritation. No-lye relaxers use calcium hydroxide or guanidine carbonate, which are gentler on the scalp but can cause more dryness and mineral buildup.

Are modern relaxers safer than older formulations?

Modern relaxers have improved safety features like better pH indicators, protective base creams, and conditioning ingredients. However, all chemical relaxers still pose some risk of damage and require careful application.

Why did relaxer sales decline after 2000?

Relaxer sales declined due to the natural hair movement, increasing health concerns about chemical treatments, changing beauty standards, and better information sharing through social media and online communities.

Recommended Products

• Conair Detangling Comb – Gentle wide teeth prevent breakage when detangling relaxed hair.
• Grace Eleyae Satin-Lined Sleep Cap – Prevents moisture loss and breakage while protecting relaxed styles overnight.
• Cricket Ultra Smooth Conditioning Rake Comb – Seamlessly glides through freshly relaxed hair without causing stress or damage.
• Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Strengthening Hair Masque – Restores protein and moisture balance to chemically treated hair.
• Design Essentials Oat Protein Henna Deep Cleansing Shampoo – Removes mineral buildup from no-lye relaxers without stripping moisture.